Just let that sink in for a second and consider all that it means. Heavy, isn’t it? But is it true? I’ve been batting this around in my head for quite some time actually, and have admitted already here that I find what I and other eco-fashion bloggers do hypocritical, to say the least. But I also don’t believe that producing and consuming are inherently evil or bad for the environment; there’s a fine line, however, between balance & excess in the world of fashion. I do believe that waste should be avoided at ALL costs (starting with the producers and ending with consumers) – I’d even argue that that’s more important that the actual materials used in producing a garment. It’s about resources, and using them intelligently and as ethically as possible.
Given the recent scandals with H&M throwing out clothing that had been SLASHED so as not to be wearable, and their disclosure that their organic cotton may not have been as organic as they said it was, thoughts and discussion about organic cotton and eco-fashion have set the blogosphere on fire. And I don’t want to be all “I told you so…” but I have always advocated shopping smaller boutiques & designers as opposed to fast fashion or large chain stores EVEN if you’re buying organic cotton clothing. In my mind, buying eco-friendly means buying more than just the item of clothing – you’re also buying into the company and its suppliers. I’m never really that surprised when a gigantic corporation discloses information like this – I almost expect it, which is why I prefer to focus on smaller designers and boutiques who start out and are guided by ethics and concern for resources. The idea that you can purchase organic cotton clothing at H&M or WalMart and that makes you “eco-friendly” is so misguided it’s not even funny…
I don’t mean to rant, but there was way too much shock & awe over recent revelations for my taste 
But back to the original statement and title of this blog post: “I don’t think any eco-brand exists.” That’s a quote from SANS designer Lika Volkova from a video about her new “printable patterns” initiative & the idea of eco-friendly clothing in general. It provides absolutely brilliant insight into what it means to be an eco-friendly designer and the use of resources in the fashion industry. (Thanks so much to makool loves you for introducing this on her blog today.)
Her argument is essentially that as a designer, because you’re producing things, using up resources, you can’t possibly be eco-friendly. I don’t agree with that 100%, but there is a significant amount of truth to what she says. It would simply not be possible for all the producers to stop producing, not even for a small amount of time; economies would collapse, and nothing would be accomplished. It’s much more about using resources ethically and intelligently so as not to produce WASTE along with a product that’s important. And that is where the challenge lies: it’s relatively easy for a designer to just say, okay, I’m going to work only with organic cotton. But that does not an eco-friendly designer make. The hard part is deciding to work with hemp, to find uses for scraps, to makes smaller batches, to pay fair wages, and so on.
Please take a few minutes to watch the video if you haven’t yet – it’s really valuable. I love that Lika puts her money where her mouth is with her printable patterns and very unique designs. I don’t think anyone could argue against the fact that if you were to print out one of her patterns and create it yourself with a conventional cotton fabric it would be much more friendly towards the environment than buying organic cotton or even hemp clothing from a larger outlet. (I also just love to hear her talk) And she makes some very interesting points about “making things” for yourself and that being enough. This really hit home for me, as I’m wanting very much to get back into needlework and sewing and “making things” myself…
Do you think there’s such a thing as an “eco-brand?” What does it take for a designer to be eco-friendly in your opinion?
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I agree with every part about this article. I think its hard to find a 100% eco friendly brand, especially when there are so many people and elements to a business. The materials may be eco-friendly, but how about the production and energy aspect? Some people dont eat meat because of the farm industry and enviroment, but buy leather products. They reason that nothing should go to waste. But as a consumer everything creates a demand. No matter what we do it seems hypocritical. I guess its about trying our best and making thoughtful purchases.
your last statement is the key, lulu, we just have to make the best decisions we can in keeping with our ethics, and always, always shop consciously.
I used to be very strict about being eco-friendly. But would find fault later. This was disheartning for a while and but realized that as humans we waste. I still care, but not as fanatical. I mainly do etsy, vintage, and all my recent accessories are recycled, things I found visiting here. So thanks for your good work.
I think it would be difficult to be ‘all things to all people’ so to speak. I myself avoid large clothing retailers, mostly for the environmental impact and lack of quality. There are a couple of boutiques in my area (Portland) where the clothing is made in the stores themselves, even if they are not all from organic materials. I think that is the best way due to the fact that the fabric is generally sourced locally and the clothing only have to travel a few feet to the racks.
I do also sew some of my own clothing and even then, I have conflicts regarding where the fabric is coming from. Many people sew because its thought to be more cost effective, but the cost of fabric itself can turn people away (add to that thee time and potential mistakes). Most people I know that sew buy their fabric from large retailers.
.-= Carla´s last blog ..Too much paper! =-.
lucky you for living in portland
i agree with your assessment of sewing garments yourself – it can be cost prohibitive to a certain extent, especially with all the upfront investment you have to make. and even when sewing your own clothes, you have to be conscious of who/where the fabric comes from if you want to avoid large retailers…it’s all about choices, and all of us choosing what to buy or what not to buy in keeping with what is important to us…
do i believe the existence of an eco-brand? yes, and no.
i struggled with this very question all the time when i was in ecological affairs at aveda (whom some would call an eco-brand).
shipping shampoo in plastic bottles around the globe – hm, hard to say this is an eco brand, never mind the quality and sourcing of the ingredients or the footprint of the packaging.
if you accept, however, that some people want to buy consumer products, and don’t have the ability, time or means to create for themselves, then yes, i do feel there are some great brands who are authentically attempting to minimize their eco-impact or otherwise doing good, thereby providing better choices to aware consumers.
are these brands perfect? no.
am i? no.
but i’m all for creating more awareness and more consumer demand for brands to do eco-more.
.-= tara´s last blog ..she wants (them all) :: canopy verde =-.
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